By definition, the substrate is the environment in which the roots grow and protect from light, they do not bear: they are photosensitive. Thus, there are several substrates culture that can be classified into two distinct categories: the soil and hydroponics. On the other hand, the so-called modern culture based on hydroponics (or literally from the Greek work of water) for plants operating in a sterile and inert substrate such as clay pebbles, rock wool, coir, peat moss, vermiculite, pozzolan … These different substrates do not contain nutrients and require constant inputs of fertilizers and evolving through the water. Only bio-mineral fertilizers are to prescribe the climatic conditions within its area of culture and the ability of plants to absorb the inputs depending on the stage of growth or flowering, to program its tides and time using a manual controller, digital or cyclic. In practical terms, most plants are changing, their needs more water and fertilizer are important
Soil
The so-called traditional culture refers to land that requires no or little use of fertilizers, according to its fattening. The fertilizers used in ground, powder form or liquid may be organic or organic-inorganic origin. Indeed, as part of an outdoor grow in the ground, inputs of fertilizer are not mandatory because the plants can spread their roots without limits to meet their basic nutritional needs for growth and flowering / fruiting.
However, as part of an interior land under cultivation, the plants are partitioned in pots and therefore must be attentive level monitoring nutrient inputs. Already stabilized at a pH between 6.0 and 6.4, the land “ready to use” proposed by professional garden consist in most cases of different forms of peat, humus and perlite (element enabling oxygenate blending and ensure proper drainage). A ground says “light” containing few nutrients is preferred in the first potting or over the cycle of growth and blossoms, will fertilize to convenience or if land under cultivation will be conducted with fertilizers biominerals example.
So a richer earth possible in the first repotting logically grows to space nutrient inputs. In general, on land under cultivation, potting two to three are expected. When switching to flowering or fruiting, it is advisable to go in a pot two to three times larger than that of growth. A simple principle to remember: the higher the volume of earth brought, the greater root mass, the greater the plants are productive!easily soluble in water and can remain in a solution (stirred regularly) ten days. However, some manufacturers of fertilizer (like GHE ) developed bioponics, a certified organic range of fertilizer (OMRI standards) and operational use under a hydroponics. Choosing the soil possible .
The clay ball
Most inert carrier used in home hydroponic systems, the ball of clay expanded is the simplest culture medium and most convenient (reusable from one harvest to the other) for beginning growers as for confirmed. It has a large capacity of water drainage, which offers a large root oxygenation. They allow the use of irrigation “ebb and flow” continuously or alternately, without risk of saturation of water and fertilizer plants. Irrigation by tides (15/15 minutes, for example) is also very effective to maximize oxygenation to the roots and force them to grow to fetch water.
Rockwool
This culture medium is also very common, especially among horticultural professionals; the majority of tomato crops from the food industry is carried on the substrate. Rock wool is recognized for its ability to retain water and nutrients, so its irrigation demand great attention of the farmer in the extent that it must be planned and spaced evenly over the lighting time of plants to meet their needs. In practice, the grower will take into account the volume of rock wool used, mold thereof (growth of pathogenic fungi). Rock wool, before hosting the plants must be neutralized in the 24 hours soaking in a solution of 5 to 5.5 pH because it is naturally alkaline. Warning: rock wool contains particles irritating to the respiratory tract (moisten before handling).
Coir
Very cheap and very airy, coconut fiber is an environmentally friendly and renewable substrate, obtained from coconut husks. It contains antifungal and antibacterial remarkable properties. The coconut fiber is biodegradable and presents a good alternative to rock wool, the use is similar. Coconut fiber may be mixed with the perlite or ball clay to 30%, to maximize drainage capacity. Resistant to rot, it nevertheless requires special attention at the automated irrigation: a drought proved an unfortunate result acidity of the environment and development deficiencies in plants. Moreover, by its original environment and unless it is already “ready for use” (some brands offer the already processed), coir must be buffered through the use of a “buffering agent “that will come dissolve all the salts it contains and effectively prepare to receive the plants.
Hydroponics Rigid Substrates
clay beads
The balls of 8-16 mm diameter provide an excellent structure for the plant roots and the retention of beneficial bacteria! Use: soak them before use. If it is too high, lower the pH.
The clay pellets Gold Label have been designed with the purest clay. For the health of your plants and the environment, they are cooked in an open stove, running on clean fuels.
perlite
Hydroponic growing medium and essential component to any good soil mixture used in professional horticulture. The perlite is an expanded volcanic rock, essential to any land and coconut fibers (30%).It allows optimal oxygenation of the root system. Nevertheless, it requires some precautions job dry. The mask is recommended to wear because it irritates the respiratory tract. Wet, it remains harmless
Sphagnum chili
Plant substrate unfermented, non-enriched and pH 4. Organic matter: 70% of the gross, dry matter 70%. Originally from Chile, sphagnum moss is the essential element in the constitution of any substrate because it has great anti-bacterial powers. She has a great capacity to retain water (20 times its weight, very convenient when going on vacation!), And also has the power to regenerate, thus developing. It proves very beneficial in the context of an orchid culture, repotting, the germination of cuttings …
In Nature, the light emitted by the Sun not only allows plants to grow through the photosynthesis but also trigger a fruiting or flowering thanks to the lighting time, the photoperiod. Private light, plants would decline rapidly (yellowing) and die.
Several types of bulbs recreate the conditions of natural light:
CFL bulbs
HPS bulbs
MH bulbs
neon lights
the LEDs
To enhance the intensity of horticultural light,reflectors are perfect. Light is essential to the success of your hydroponics or soil. Some bulbs will require a ballast .
Photosynthesis
It is an essential biochemical pathway in the plant that allows it to grow. Combined with a supply of water and nutrients, light activity will allow plants to absorb carbon dioxide (CO² = fuel photosynthesis) and release oxygen. Thus, more light intensity, the greater the growth of the plant is perennial and abundant flowering.
photoperiod
The photoperiod is summed up the cycle of light and darkness. Spring, day time lengthen, which causes the growth of plants. In Summer (from June 21), the light time is shorter, then the plants begin their flowering cycle. Inside, the photoperiod of a growing plant is realized by alternating 18 hours of light and 6 hours of darkness; that of flowering is reduced to 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness. It is essential to respect the photoperiod to avoid unnecessary stress to the plants accompanied a risk revive it growing. This “flash” could lessen their alertness or flower production.These are the cycles of light and darkness. The use of a timer is required to manage these alternations automatically. Only the moonlight or light a green lamp can observe your plants without disturbing their sleep.
Only the light of the moon or outdoor light a green lamp inside will not come to disturb the night periods in the plant. Inside, the color emitted by the light source and expressed in degrees Kelvin (K) will influence on cultivated plants.
The Colour
Generated by the light source, expressed in degrees Kelvin (K), color affects the plants grown in closet. Thus, for growth, it is best to use cool colors to blue-white dominance (MH bulbs, CFL or higher neon 3,000 K) and warm colors to red-orange dominance (HPS bulbs, CFL or lower neon 3,000 K) for flowering. The PAR unit (or photosynthetic Activ Radiation) measures the active efficiency of a light source on the photosynthesis of the plant. In fact, the more PAR unit is close to 100% (as proposed by the neon lights 55w, T5 neons and CFL bulbs or energy saving), the more light generated from the lamp is useful for photo- synthesis of the plant and therefore the more it will be lively and productive.
Light intensity
Expressed in lumens (lm), the clear light intensity of a lamp will determine the optimal lit area and production of a plant. In fact, over a light source, the greater the surface ground is lit and the more the plant will be productive. In this area, high pressure sodium (HPS) are performing. However, a safe distance between the light source and the summit of plants is to meet in order to avoid leaf burn. There are in the market for glass reflectors ( Cool Tub e, Xtra Cool …) to be connected directly to an extractor, allowing a significant reduction in heat from the bulb (- 4 to 5 ° C), a division of two safety distances, and therefore optimization of the light. To obtain a homogeneous flower production and bet- Leure heat distribution, it is preferable to use the same luminous intensities in all the culture space. Example: to cover an area of 120 x 160 cm, it is advisable to use two HPS 250W rather than 600W.
Lamp Type
Intensity (lm)
Optimal lit area
Safety distance
Neon 2 x 55W or 48W T5
approximately 10,000
100 x 50 cm
of 5 to 10 cm
Neon 4 x 55W or 96W T5
approximately 20,000
100 x 100 cm
of 5 to 10 cm
CFL 125W
9375
50 x 50 cm
of 5 to 10 cm
CFL 150W
11250
60 x 60 cm
of 5 to 10 cm
CFL 200W
15000
70 x 70 cm
of 5 to 10 cm
CFL 250W
18750
100 x 50 cm
10 to 15 cm
MH / HPS 150W
15 000 – 17 000
50 x 50 cm
15 to 20 cm
MH / HPS 250W
24 000 – 33 000
60 x 60 cm
20 to 30 cm
MH / HPS 400W
32 000 – 58 000
90 x 90 cm
from 30 to 40 cm
MH / HPS 600W
88 000 – 105 000
120 x 120 cm
50 to 60 cm
MH / HPS 1000W
110 000 – 158 000
140 x 140 cm
100 cm
In the market, there are glass reflectors (like Cool Tube or Xtracool) valid to enclose the MH or HPS bulbs) for direct connection to an extractor, high performance insofar as these allow a significant gain of heat ( loss of 4 to 5 ° C on average) in the culture space, divide the safety distances by two (heat sucked origin) and thus illuminate deeper canopy (plant material).
To obtain a uniform flower production and a better distribution of heat, it is best to use the same light intensities and well distributed over the whole of the culture space. Example: to cover a space of 120x60cm, it is advisable to allocate two HPS 250W 600W HPS rather than …
The technology and quality of these products have evolved considerably over the past decade. They regulate volts and watts electronically with reduced power consumption. Silent, they do not create resistance, therefore almost no heat. They can be used with all compact fluorescent T5 or whatever the power of neon. Not to mention their high efficiency ballasts that makes the most economic solution to drive the most efficient sources: fluorescent lamps.
magnetic ballasts
They are used to transform the current electrical circuits. The magnetic ballasts must match the bulbs used (MH, HPS, neon lights …). The most effective way to use an HID lamp ballast is to be looped. There is a lesser resistance to electricity when the ballast tanks are arranged in series on a circuit. Less power is lost during transmission. The series-connected ballasts are supplied with more current, the earth should be powerful. Steer a direction of ballast fan cooled and makes it more efficient. The connections must be made by professionals.
Reflectors MH – HPS
Optimize your lighting and limit losses. Essential to the reflection of the light, they can target the lumens on your plan-. The shape of the reflector determines the distribution of the light and the heat. Closed reflectors better focus the light output. The materials generally used are bright aluminum or hammered. The advantage of hammered aluminum is to disperse the light output in dozens of directions, which prevents firing points. They are all equipped with E40 sockets for all lamps MH, HPS, CFL and hybrid 125 to 300W. Consider buying the necessary cables to the socket-ballast connections / ballast-sector. Intensity = number of lumens emitted at the source square of the distance. The distance between lamps and plants is very important and should not be approximate because every centimeter counts . Several factors are involved in the assessment of this distance: surface and shape of the reflector, ventilation, intensity of the light bulb …
STEP 1:
. calculating the growth chamber the size So the first thing you need to do is to accurately measure: calculate the total volume of greenhouse cubic meters. You will need the length, width and height of the grow room. Use the simple formula:
Length (m) x Width (m) x height (m) = Volume of greenhouse gases (m3) A x B x H = V (m3) For example, your greenhouse has the following dimensions: length (A) – 3.65 m, width (B) – 2.4 m, height (H) – 2.5 m (Fig. 1).
Furthermore, a well insulated room lends itself to environmental control easier
STEP 2: choice of lighting equipment
Once you know the size of the room, calculate the best way to shine. Your mission is to provide your plants all the light they need to grow and thrive, while maintaining an optimum environment for the metabolism of plants in your garden. NOTE! Attention to safety distances horticultural lamps. This means that if you have a low ceiling height, you should consider using lower power lights. The room should for example have a height of 2 m under ceiling so that we can use the 600W lamps
The recommended distance between the light and the canopy that most farmers use are: The light powers most commonly used for domestic cultural ture are 1000 W, 600 W, 400 W and 250W. Each light has a defined space. NOTE! Keep in mind that the information above are for lamps amount Tees horizontally in normal open or closed reflectors. If you use parabolic reflectors with vertically mounted lights or reflectors “aircooled” you can afford to bring the light of plants thanks to ventilated reflectors, glass types Xtracool, Monster Warrior Cooltube …
Thus the available floor space in the room is 3.65 x 2.4 m. You can try to squeeze as much as possible the lights in this room, but while retaining a practical mind if you want an easy and comfortable room you will need adequate access around your plants to make maintenance and easy inspection. About 0.66 m around your plants is a good work area.
Fig. 2. The minimum distance between the plants should not be less than 0.66 m. Experienced growers can choose much more space than that. In our example, we use 2 x 600 W light (fig. 3). Fig. 3. Cultivate a room with 2×600 W lamps. Example room 2.4 x 3, 65 m equipped with two 600W lamps. If you want to make life difficult, you can install up to 6 lights 600W (Fig. 4).
Fig. 4. Room with 6x600W lamps. Example room 2.4 x 3, 65 m, equipped with two 600W lamps.
Light distribution
The shape of the reflector and its coating determine the light distribution, as well as the presence of undesirable hot spots. glass reflectors, rails Light and Spreaders are used to avoid these harmful heated points for the leaves.
CFL bulbs
Energy saving bulbs are a considerable step in the horticultural lighting. Unlike HPS and MH, the spectrum produced is 100% that of photosynthesis. The lights do not heat almost, all of the electricity used is converted into light, not heat. They are ideal for a micro-garden, in addition to daylight or traditional HPS or MH lamp. These bulbs require no ballast.
Neon lights, compact fluorescent
These neon small concentrate light to 220W. They are ideal for cuttings and plants requiring small amounts of light during the day. Economic, they can grow in small short distance from the plant due to their low heat emission areas.
T5
Reconcile super-production and aesthetics with T5 T5 lighting system has proved to be a real discovery for the cultivation of plants like for aquariums. It is the most efficient horticultural lighting with low heat output and high intensity. Fluorescent tubes are now available for all phases of plant growth as well as for fish and reptiles.
T5 operation
The T5 is a fluorescent tube particularly high flows. It is brighter than fluorescent and diffuse basic equilibrium of a color adapted to plant growth and care of fish. Fluorescent tubes are still de- finished as light sources “colder” than HID systems. The T5 includes a reflector designed for a wide angle diffusion and is used to cover a larger growing area than conventional fluorescent lamps. The T5 produce more light than the basic tubes and emit a certain amount of heat. They are, however, definitely cooler than HID and can be placed much closer to plants or aquarium – a huge advantage in terms of effective lighting production – Closer = brighter. The inverse square law show that the projected light on a surface is inversely proportional to the square of the distance that separates it from the source. This means that over your lamps are close to your plants, the better they are doing. The distance is halved and the lighting is quadrupled. Technically speaking, the inverse-square law applies only to point sources of light. Fluorescent lamps are long thin tubes can be further considered as line sources, that behave slightly differently. The fact is that fluorescent lights – including the powerful T5 tubes – can be placed close to the plants. The raw power of T5 is considered fit to exceed the penetration of HID lamps. The T5 tubes are mounted inside shallow reflectors including ballasts, for space savings. You can now grow plants with a limited height.
T5 use
The use of T5 system during propagation of your plants allows them harmonious growth and bulking with short internodes and thick stems. Unlike other fluorescent systems, it can be used throughout the life cycle of your crops to produce high quality adult plants, as growth in bloom. Two types of tubes are available: T5 tubes growth (6500 K), supplied as standard, produce bright white light needed for lush growth. This light is perfect for growing young plants and plants in general. These tubes are highly recommended for all types of plants and offer the advantage of highlighting the most spectacular plants like orchids featuring both ing the bright green foliage and colorful flowers. The T5 tubes flowering (2700 Kelvin), sold separately, are designed to provide the exact color spectrum needed by plants to produce fruits and flowers in abundance.
LED lighting
Power consumption reduced to third parties, without the use of auxiliary materials related to the bulbs MH / HPS (fan, reflector, air conditioner …).
LEDs provide the ideal wave lengths for your plants, unlike MH / HPS that provide extra light to the plants. They can meet the needs of plants during all stages of growth and flowering.
Life 10 times the bulb MH / HPS – They do not heat up and are highly resistant to shock and temperature changes.
Environmentally friendly, they do not contain harmful substances MH and HPS, such as mercury.
Plasma bulbs
The plasma lamp is often touted as the future of thehorticultural lighting , it emits little heat, not consuming electricity and generates an impressive amount of light. What is a Plasma bulb ?
Programmers timers
Using a timer is essential in the growth chamber, automating cycles of photoperiod. Recall
growing: 18 hours of light / 6 hours dark.
flowering: 12 hours light, 12 hours dark.
It is essential to respect the photoperiod to avoid stressing the plants, or revive growth.
A culture tent is dedicated to indoor growing . Its name differs between people and places, you can call the culture chamber , grow tent , Growtent ,homebox , box ..
HomeBox was first a brand, the first to be commercialized culture chambers, but then became a term of the language of indoor growing .
There are different types, but the growth chamber canvas remains the alternative chosen by the majority of farmers interior. A self-assembly, these culture rooms are extremelypractical . Designed in canvas, they are completely sealed to external light . Inside the tent is lined with reflective material, usually mylar is used, but this can also be ofaluminum or white tarpaulin highly reflective like Orca.
It is not easy to reproduce in your grow room climate conditions around the outside . However, the acquisition of a ” homebox ” quality will enable easier management of the air , the humidity , the temperature and light . It is best to start your career as hydroculture by purchasing a room whose surface and height will determine the number of lamps, their intensity and the size of the system to use.
Namely The required minimum height is 1.40m (according to cultivar), knowing that the plants are raised about 30 cm from the ground by tanks and a distance of 30 cm is required between the ceiling and lamps.
Where to install its growing space?
It is first necessary to know the area you willing to install your grow room . It is often said that we must first choose its cultivation and its equipment, but in practice growers often adapt their culture as space.
Think before you start, plus installation is well thought out, the better your chance of success your crops. The indoor culture is the reflection, practice and patience.
Once you have defined where you position your box , banish all that trap dust like carpets, carpet … The room in which will be installed your culture tentmust have a moisture content not too high ambient. Indeed a rate of humidity high is needed inside your box, so it’s best and outside your tent moisture be low otherwise it can become problematic for your crop . In which case you can use dehumidifiers in the room for example.
For a classic, durable installation time, we recommend to dedicate a space of at least 1m2 2m in height . If the culture is considered permanent, so seamlessly, it is better to have two growth chambers : one dedicated to the growth that will host parent plantand cuttings , the other will house the plants in bloom.
It is indispensable to hermetically separate each space.
Today some brands offer growth chambers that hasseveral growing areas in the same room . If you choose this alternative, then you have some experience, because you will have to manage different plants at different stages of culture . Indeed it is important to keep the climate balance of each space. This practice will allow you to grow your plants continuously
Horizontal division:Vertical division: . Use 1/3 of the room for growth and 2/3 for flowering The growth chamber is then divided into two parts, you can also divide into two horizontally growth portion in order to have the bottom part for cuttings and the mother plant, and above the growth portion.
You then take at least 80cm in height and 1.40m for growth for flowering. The area of growth will be lower and the space of flowering above.
Different areas depending on the culture phase:
How to manage space germination / rooting?
The temperature should be maintained between 20 ° C and 25 ° C. Of the rate humidity (moisture content) will be around 90% within the mini-greenhouse . The use of fans is not yet necessary at this stage of culture. for lighting use a cold light (blue) type CFL , neon orLED .
How to manage its growth space?
The temperature should be maintained between 20 ° C and 25 ° C day and 18 ° C at night , with a humidity rate (humidity) of between 60 and 80% . You can addfans to avoid the heat of the lamp reaches the plant.
For lighting, a dual compact fluorescent 110 watts is enough, unless you opt for MH .
It is necessary to have at least 1m minium height for phase growing your plants.
How to manage her blossoming space?
The temperature should be maintained between 25 ° C and 27 ° C day and 18 ° C at night , with a humidity rate (humidity) of between 40 and 70% . There are already fans to avoid the heat of the lamp reaches the plant, but you will also increase the extraction power of your air extractors.
In a space of 1 m², a 400 watt lamp is enough. It takes two meters tall to develop beautiful plants but also to keep in your space a constant temperature.
It will equip you with an extractor equipped with a dimmer to adjust its speed according to the ideal temperature, a fan , a charcoal filter (to reduce odor) and a thermo-hygrometer . this space must be completely sealed to the outside light. Check the capacity of your electrical system to support all of the hardware in your indoor garden . All plugs and electrical connections must be located high up and protected from splashing water. The ideal is to have 2m high for the stage flowering of your plants.
Also, regardless of the type of box you choose, it is very important to pay attention to the sizes of socks intraction and extraction to select a suitable material. Most box -equipped but the sizes differ depending on the size of the tent. In fact you will need to adjust your purchase by size of socks and size of the flange of your extractor , your sleeve , or your charcoal filter .
On land, the whole plant mass has in abundance a rich air CO² (carbon dioxide or carbon dioxide) andO² (oxygen). Without it, all life is impossible! Through stomata covering their leaves (similar to human pores), a plant releases oxygen (but also consumes but less !!!) and absorbs CO² (but also rejects, but less!). from this fact, indoors, that reproduce the climatic conditions at the just outside indoors ensures abundant crops and rapides.Les plants produce their own organic material (sugar, cellulose, energy …) to from water (mineral salts) and CO² absorbed by the leaves through solar energy; is the photosynthetic mechanism. Deprived of this gas, the plant dies. Through stomata covering their leaves, plants release more oxygen than they consume and consume much CO² they emit in. Indoors, none of the natural elements that generate CO² are present, except the plant. This is the horticulturist who must undertake to bring him in.
Extraction
An extractor and an air intracteur are indispensable in a growth chamber, operating by air call. The extractor, placed high, renews the CO² and ejects air depleted of the culture chamber while controlling the temperature. The intracteur, he facilitates the work of the extractor by optimizing the air change; it is located at the bottom of the part, opposite the extractor and at a lower speed. The power of these two turbines must be proportional to the heat generated by the light sources employed, depending on the culture space.
Extractors and air intracteurs
The air extractor evacuates the hot air and oxygen-depleted culture chambers. It is essential in indoor cultivation because it prevents suffocation of the plants and the attack of pests and molds doting stagnant, humid air. Reverse the direction and you’ll get an air intracteur.
Ventilation
In addition to the ventilation, ventilation is an essential parameter for the proper functioning of a culture of space. Air movement 0² facilitate exchanges / CO² stomata (= liveliness gain) and expand the plant structure (= increased production). They are delivered by fans or the brewers, lead directly to the plants of uniform and progressive manner.
Temperature
The required temperature is between 20 ° C and 25 ° C, ideally at 23 ° C. Through extraction / intraction and ventilation, the temperature of the culture chamber is controlled to a certain extent; in fact, maintain a good temperature is difficult in summer when the ambient heat is added to that of the lamps. Two solutions: use an air conditioner or trigger the light phase to the dark. It is important that the temperature variations do not exceed more than 10 ° C between day and night to alleviate any stress that might suffer the plants. It is advisable to connect a thermostat to the extractor and intracteur to automatically manage the temperature differences within the culture chamber.
In addition, it is important that temperature changes do not exceed 10 ° C between the phases of the day and night to alleviate unnecessary stress that could suffer the plants. To avoid these disturbing fluctuations, it is recommended to connect to the extractor and the introducer a thermostat device for automated temperature management within the growing space.
Humidity
In addition to controlling the temperature, the use of extractors / fans intracteurs and allows control of humidity (or humidity). Expressed as a percentage (%), the amount of water available in the air is measured with a hygrometer and humidistat control (mating extraction / ventilation or humidification). In most cases, a culture chamber housing the plants in the vegetative phase (growth) requires the establishment of a humidifier (cold vapor and already equipped with a humidistat preferably) or ultrasonic nebuliser to maintain 50 to 70% of necessary humidity. These measures ensure optimal gas exchange in stomata. In contrast, just 45 to 50% relative humidity for flowering to prevent any mold.
A thermo-hygrometer measures temperature and humidity, which can display the minima / maxima of these values. This handy tool is placed in the center of the area of culture and top height of plants to save the good data. These two measurements, temperature and humidity are combined on a device that can display minimum -maximums of these two values, the thermo-hygrometer. This handy tool is placed in the center of the area of culture and heights of plants summits to save the real action.
scents
Odor management is also a factor to consider in order not to disturb the neighborhood. For this, several products on the market are effective up to 100%: thecarbon filter , ionizer (device releasing negative ions that clean the air) or the ozone generator (requiring the use instead of an annex room to place the generator). The charcoal filter, the ionizer (device releasing negative ions while eliminating odors and purifying the air) or the ozone generator (requiring the establishment of an annex room to place the generator). Being the best-selling and best quality / price ratio, the carbon filter is as a large cylinder filled with active carbon trapping odors. Very simple to install, it is placed on top, within the space of culture and connects to the entrance of the extraction circuit to the extent that the heat and smells rise. Also, place a carbon filter, outside, at the entrance of the insertion circuit (flexible filters Odorsok type are recommended for this purpose) also ensures no harmful intrusion of dust and / or unpleasant odors on fruit or flowers that could come from the environment close to the grow room. in order to stimulate plant growth and maximize their production, some demanding growers resort to injecting CO².
The odor management, can also be done by small innovative appliances such as The Neutralizer.
Injection of CO²
To boost plant growth and maximize their production, some demanding growers resort to injecting CO² . This technique is to release carbon dioxide in the culture chamber to be sealed (installation of check valves at the entrances / exits of air) to reach a value of 1500 ppm. This contribution can be carried out effectively under two forms: the melting of dry ice (held on trays) or the controlled release of cylinders CO² (connected to a solenoid valve and a CO² controller informed by a probe). To prevent poisoning Carbon dioxide, the establishment of a CO² detection alarm is highly recommended.
soundproof box
The soundproof booths , help stop the noise of some ventilation equipment.
The selection of ventilation equipment
The breakdown of your grow room has 2 important factors: the withdrawal of hot air (depleted CO²) and the input of fresh air again. The hot air is discharged using an air extractor of the VK series. The fresh air it can either be provided by passive ventilation (type window open) or through the installation of an air intracteur the TT series, which can also be used as extractor. Knowing the size of the room and the number of lamps to be used, you can work on the ventilation requirements in m3 per hour (m3 / h)
How to calculate the size and fan extraction rate:
NOTE:. When we speak of culture volume, we include the volume occupied by the lamps and plants . To calculate the volume, multiply the length x width x height In our example with 2 lamps of 600W, this gives 1 20mx2,40mx2x50m which gives a volume of culture 7,20m3. When you know your volume, you need to multiply by the volume of air renewal per hour.
NOTE: For most indoor gardens without air conditioning or without addition of CO², the rule of “thumb” is 1 per minute. In this case, multiply the volume growing by 60 to calculate the volume of air renewal per hour.
Finally, when a carbon filter is attached to the fan, it is expected to lower efficiency 25 %. This data is variable and depends on the age of the manufactures & filter, length and intensity of circulation ducts used between the fan and the filter and other factors. To assess this decline in efficiency of 25, simply multiply by 1.25.
First we need to calculate the size of fan needed. There are several ways to determine the power of desired extraction based on the volume of the room. Namely that there are more appropriate than others and some more complicated. The following method is well known and has been endorsed by many farmers:
NOTE: Use a filter reduces the efficiency of 25% fan. If we bring the equation to our example of growing room it gives this:
The end result is the minimum size required for extraction. For example: TT 150 diam 150mm 552m3 / h flow.
Result: Exhaust Fan: Winflex VK 200 Pipe diameter: Ø200mm air flow: 540m3 / h
If the grow room is in a very isolated place such as a basement, then use this figure should be good. By cons, if the grow room is located in a place very exposed to heat and natural sunlight as an upstairs bedroom or attic, then the required extractor size should be increased by about 25% (Figure 6) Fig6.
Culture House located in a bedroom or a loft: Frequently, it will choose a most approaching from the choice that offers the range WINFLEX VK extractor. In our case, the closest and widely available is a major extractor 200mm 780m3 / h Type 200 VKU.
• How to calculate the size and air capacity of the air intracteur: As mentioned above, a continuous supply of fresh air (extéri- eur in the production area) must be ensured in the greenhouse. This can be achieved in 2 ways:
First way: Make a passive ventilation through which fresh air can be established. (through the window) (fig. 7). During the cold winter months, it is not advisable to pump directly from the outside but rather take the fresh air of a room in the house (the bedroom or living room).
During the summer months it is best to draw outside air via a refreshing sor (or the air from an air conditioner) rather than the air in the house that risk being too hot.
Note ! Generally, passive intraction will be 2 to 3 times greater than the drop output.
This means that if the extractor is 150 mm in diameter, the culture chamber will require a intraction 2 or 3 x 150 mm or rectangular ventilation grilles with equal surface. During installation of the passive intraction, the exhaust fan should always be placed at the opposite end of the grow room.
Second way: Make an active online fan facility that grow fresh air in the greenhouse. This installation is more effective than passive ventilation (Fig. 8).
Fig. 10. Source of fresh air in summer. Every time you will draw air directly from the outside, it is advisable to use aFB series filter housing (flat filters) or FBV series (with V-filter element, increasing the filtration area) to prevent intrusion of pests and other insects.
to avoid a return air used has planned a series of anti-backflow valves that open when the fan comes on and close when she goes out. This system installs in line with the series of flexible ducts Winflex (fig. 11) Note: When installing a vacuum extractor, it is imperative to ensure that it provides the necessary air to surface.
Note. When installing the intraction, make sure the air extractor is installed opposite the culture chamber
It is best to divide the air with a T or Y bypass so that air is distributed uniformly cooled. It should also reflect the fact that the range TT is more efficient to push (intraction) than to pull air (extraction) through duct or a charcoal filter (Fig. 12) If you enter more air than the exhaust fan can remove the air begins to build up and cause a “positive pressure” discharging untreated air from the grow room. So, select a suction fan with a maximum air flow capacity, which is 10-20% lower than the actual output of the exhaust fan to create a “negative pressure”.
To find the diameter ‘intracteur you have to take the power of the extractor and apply an estimated reduction for the carbon filter – 25%. If our goal is to intracteur a rate of 15% less than the extractor, we must multiply the output reduced by 0.85. Below a model to assess the intake fan of such room with 2 lamps of 600 W. below a diagram showing how to “measure” the intraction necessary for a room equipped with two 600W lamps:
3. T bypass
In intraction rate, the nearest product flow and widely available is a kind of size 150mm TT150 or VK150.
This means that when positioning your air intraction, it is preferable placing it near the fresh air source and push it to the culture chamber. To make the greenhouse air filter effectively, make sure that the flexible air duct is smooth and straight.
Well absorbed before being evacuated. Therefore, an extractor 750 m3 of capacity will need a carbon filter 750 m3. Do not try to use a filter of lower capacity, it will not work!
Useful tips to improve ventilation in your grow room
1. Position your air intracteur down, diagonally opposite to the extraction. Remember, you need to mount your fan (fig. 13). This will allow a new breath of fresh air to circulate in your grow room, while removing the hot humid air at the same time. When mounting your exhaust fan, use the appropriate brackets to prevent vibration (TT and VK fans of the series are supplied with mounting brackets). You can also use the Winflex. Fan
Fig. 13. The extraction must be installed and diagonally opposite to the air intraction for better air circulation and warm, moist air evacuation. intraction of TT Fig. 14. The carbon filter absorbs all kinds of odors Caucasus Sees by plants in some crops. Filtered and removed so more odor.
2. Some types of crops can cause odors. A filter to be professional coal coupled with the exhaust fan will help eliminate 90-95% of odors. However, it is important to properly secure your carbon filter the air extractor (Fig.14); II is important that odors are
Fig. 15. The use of silencers (SR or SRF SRP) and acoustic duct significantly reduces noise caused by the air in the ventilation system circulations.
3. If the noise is a major concern, consider using the soundproofed duct. This can eliminate up to approximately one third of noise generated by air turbulence. It is necessary to use at least one meter on both ends of the extractor to obtain any benefits. Use si- noise heavens be rigid (SR series) or flexible (SRP series SRF) is also a good way to reduce noise (Fig.15). They can afford to run a ventilation system in a domestic space. Again, for best results, attach a silencer on each end of your fan. This will help reduce noise by up to a third.
Fig. 16. Use intake fan TT … U and the suction fan VK … U with speed and temperature control module to obtain the best conditions of temperature and air quality.
Fig. 17. The equipment generates heat must be stored outside the room culture.
4. For precise control in hot and cold weather, it is interesting to use extractors, intracteurs with automatic speed control and temperature sensor of the exhaust duct (TT … U series and VK … U series) or with the remote control 4 temperature Sensors 2m length TT) These fans NEET operation to permanently reduced speed (Fig.16). The regular air changes are essential for proper growth. A control integrated combined speed and a thermostat will allow to regulate the number of air changes per hour. It will also compensate for the hot and cold temperatures by increasing or decreasing the air flow when it is triggered by the temperature sensor.
5. To ensure electrical safety and avoid unnecessary heat transfer, any equipment that generates heat must be stored outside of the grow room, on a shelf or on any non-flammable surface (Fig.17-18).
[/vc_column_text][/vc_tta_section][vc_tta_section title=”Water and Nutrients” tab_id=”1490285595410-fc5569c4-b59f”][vc_column_text]
THE WATER
Water is the essential factor for all life on Earth. In plants, water is used to transport nutrients and their uptake by the roots. Therefore, interior, optimized control of water generates substantial results in terms of liveliness and production. In most cultures, the water used is that of the tap, depending on proximity to water plants the use of a general water softener or the quality of domestic plumbing circuit is more or less “good”. Thus, simply to collect water for irrigation and decant 24 to 48 hours in a container outdoors and away from light enable it to discharge chlorine, element chemical harmful to plants (high concentration favoringdeficiencies in potassium, calcium and magnesium) and the rate has increased in recent years to fight against possible terrorist attacks by water. In addition, the use of a water filter is useful but not fully effective because the dissolved solids in the water are not retained, only the emulsion particles. Only the establishment of areverse osmosis , consisting of semipermeable membranes of polymers retaining any impurities from the water passing through it, guarantees a pure water.
FERTILIZER
The nutrients provided by water, are essential to plant life. Nutritional support precisely metered by the horticulturist allows fast growing plants to reach their full potential, providing much heavier crops and better. In most cultures, water is employed tap which is more or less “good”.
Fertilizer more effective: Decant water from a reservoir (24H-48H), filter water to remove impurities, and an even more pure water using a reverse osmosis unit.
Organic Growshop offers you the best brands on the market: Canna Plagron , Biobizz, Advanced Nutrients, General Hydroponics , BioNova ,The Growth Technology , 420 Hydroponics …
pH
The pH or potential hydrogen is essential to master in the context of a culture in soil or hydroponics. Regulated, it optimizes the assimilation of nutrients by the roots. To manage the pH of a nutrient solution taking into account the slight acidity of fertilizers and additives used, we need a pH meter and regulatory solutions (see “Checks “). on land under cultivation, irrigation water stood on pH values from 6.2 to 6.4 in growth and 6.6 to 7.0 bloom. More acid on a hydroponic medium, the pH of the water should be between 5.6 and 6.4 and in growth between 6.0 and 6.5 during flowering.
For pH control using a pH tester .
The EC
Indispensable to control hydroponics, EC (Electro-conductivity) represents the concentration of mineral salts dissolved in water. The minerals present in fertilizers emit an electrical current that quantifies EC-meter (see section “Controls”). The nutrient needs of plants from growing, the level of EC increases proportionally. Generally, the EC measures range from 0.8 to 1.4 during the vegetative stage, and from 1.4 to 1.6 during the pre-bloom to reach 1.6 to 2.2 (peak 2, 6) in the development of plants. In addition, the acceleration of the metabolism of the plant necessity follow accordingly the EC values.
In soil, test the EC value of the water having passed through the pots is interesting to prevent any excess of nutrient salts, accumulated around the roots due to poor drainage. If it does, rinse the soil with water pH adjusted, or with an enzyme solution (bacterial living ries decomposing dead roots and nutrients to make them comparable with the roots), or the osmosis water. Temperature The temperature of the sprinkling water should be between 18 ° C and 20 ° C, regardless of the substrate.
Maintaining the temperature below 21 ° C prevents the growth of pathogenic fungi in the roots (yellowing , fragility, development of a form of sticky and smelly drool …). Beyond 24 ° C, water is depleted in oxygen, causing degradation of the roots and mineral salts in the fertilizer.
To control the use EC EC tester .
Grow
Promotes growth and structural development of the plant, as well as a vigorous rooting. It prepares a beautiful bloom.
Bloom
Brings to the plant what it needs for abundant flowering and fructifitcation. It also allows to make the most of the genetics of your plants.
to know :
The nutrient solution is renewed at most every two weeks, and more often when plants are large. The best prevention is to frequently renew the support and rinse with pure water between SOLUTIONS. iL must check each day the EC (in the tank, the carrier and the solution drained) acceptable value of ec 0.75 to 2 ms verify that the ph of the water is good between 5.5 and 6 5 before adding fertilizer.
REMINDER: N = nitrogen phosphorus P = K = potassium
Some components required for your plants
Nitrogen (N)
The fast growing plants require in large quantities. It is mainly responsible of the growth of the plant. Nitrogen is capable of moving from one part to the other of the plant depending on its needs. Nitrogen deficiency results in stunted growth, symptoms first appear on the leaves at the bottom of the plant turn yellow before falling. These symptoms then extend over the remainder of the plant. The stem and leaf veins may turn purplish red. Nitrate is a form of nitrogen used in hydroponics for its slow absorption. Consider reducing contributions during flowering because it alters the taste of the crop.
Phosphorus (P)
Phosphorus is necessary for photosynthesis and energy transport within the plant. The fast growing plants need more phosphorus during germination, planting, the cuttings and flowering. A lack of phosphorus slows the growth, the leaves are smaller, and often mottled blue. The main veins turn red-purple on the underside of leaves. Phosphorus deficiency often occurs when the pH of the culture medium is higher than 7 or less than 5.8.
Calcium (CA)
Fundamental synthesis and cell growth. Calcium deficiency, little color appli- indoors (usually caused by high humidity and dense production) prevent the maintenance of cell walls. The plant, more sensitive, seems “soft” and its young leaves wither.
IRON (Fe)
Fundamental enzymatic systems and electron transport during photosynthesis. Catalyst for the production of chlorophyll, iron is needed to reduce and assimilation of nitrates and sulfates. Iron deficiencies are common when the pH is above 6.5. Symptoms ap- raissent on smaller leaves that turn yellow between the veins which remain green.
Magnesium (MG)
Magnesium, an essential element, is the central molecule ylle chloroph- that converts light energy into chemical energy. Magnesium deficiency is manifested by pink chloro- (slight discoloration between the ribs of old leaves), rust stains and premature leaf drop. An excess disrupts the growth and the leaves remain small.
Potassium (K)
Potash improves flower color and fruit flavor, giving the plants more resistant to pests, diseases and bad weather. A deficiency results in yellowing of the older leaves in Cant commentary by the tip. The plants are most sensitive and brittle stems, color task rust on the leaves.
enzymes
Enzymes act as an accelerator (catalyst) of a series of biochemical processes of the plant. They transform into alcohol carbohydrates in seconds, against several weeks under normal circumstances. Enzymes improve the water holding capacity and aeration of the substrate that remains clean and free of excess elements (this is important if meet- sing). The dead parts like roots decompose more quickly, freeing many nutrients that focus on the protection of pathogens. The root system is more efficient.
soil fertilizers
Some are organic and suitable for organic farming, other minerals and are suitable for drip irrigation.
coconut fertilizer
mineral fertilizers. They should be smooth, perfectly soluble, 100% comparable and residue.
hydroponic fertilizer
mineral fertilizers. They should be smooth, perfectly soluble, 100% comparable and residue.
Export
The product is only available outside French territory.
Technical info:
The assimilation of nutrients is a function of pH. The safety zone is between 5.8 and 6.8. to prevent acidification of the nutrient solution, use water with the pH above 6.
DEFICIENCY IN PLANTS
Deficiencies in the framework of indoor growing, usually arrive after the loss of a culture substrate that is depleted through being used. To avoid deficiencies, you can change the substrate to each new culture. Also think of the end of each culture, to sterilize your jars to bleach, and rinse well.
A deficiency must be clearly identified to be treated;
Some deficiencies are not visible if the stage of deficiency is not completed.
If you do not treat the disease, the plant may get sick because weakened, so it is important to react losque you diagnose a deficiency.
